The Ultimate Guide to Room Sizes and Layouts

Planning a new house can be fun but challenging. There are seemingly infinite ways to plan rooms and houses, and information is scattered across the internet.

I’ve put together a series of information and diagrams below to assist you with this challenge. Information for numerous room types, each showing how different room sizes can be determined, has been put together in one article to help you with sizing your rooms.

Use this info as a general guide for the types of furnishings, fixtures, and cabinetry you might want and what size of room can accommodate them. The recommended dimensions are rules of thumb that I use to create comfortable spaces when planning houses. Various sources can have recommended dimensions that vary a bit from those below, but you should use mine as a starting point for planning comfortable and workable rooms.

There are an infinite number of options for furniture and cabinetry types and sizes and their layouts in a space, so we can’t cover every possible option. This info can be used to give you a general sense of what can work. You can adjust the room sizes as needed to reflect the actual things you want in those spaces.

Be sure to create your own unique room diagrams before you start planning the overall house. Start by laying out the furniture, fixtures, and cabinets the way you’d prefer before finalizing the room size. These diagram layouts will then guide you on your overall house planning efforts.

Front entrances

The main entry of the house establishes the feel of the home and should represent your personality and your home’s style and size.

An entry should be at least five feet wide to allow for comfortable maneuvering, but 7 feet or more is better. The depth from the front door should be at least eight feet to allow for a comfortable space beyond the swing of the front door.

Allow for additional width or depth for a table to set items on, and possibly a chair or bench for people to pull on or off shoes. A coat closet should open onto the entry hall or be nearby. Even if you live in warm and dry climates, evenings can often get chilly and rain can occur even in deserts, so a place for guests to hang jackets is needed. It’s beneficial to also have an umbrella stand so guests have a place to store their wet umbrellas.

Hallways

Hallways are needed to access private rooms so those rooms don’t open directly into the living spaces, which is never good. Hallways don’t have to be “wasted” or “leftover” space if you design them for more than basic circulation.

At minimum, a hall should be 36 inches in width, but 42 to 48 inches is better and more comfortable to walk down. The greater width also makes it easier to view photographs and art that’s hung on the walls.

Widths such as 60 inches or more allow the hallway to feel more like a an actual space your walking through rather than just a simple passage. This width allows for the addition of side tables and chairs for intimate conversation areas and greater viewing of photos and artwork.

Long hallways can be visually broken into shorter lengths through the use of “archways”, which are just walls across the hall with wide openings in between them, wall setbacks, columns, windows, and other design elements.

Another item to consider is focal points. A piece of art highlighted at the end of a hall can liven up the experience and make the hall feel less long.

Living Rooms / Family Rooms

These rooms should reflect how you live and how you want to be perceived. Most of us live rather casual lives, so those spaces should be comfortable and relaxing. There are, however, times when a formal living room is needed, such as for formal get-togethers or to provide a space reflecting a more formal lifestyle.

The primary seating group should be arranged so that people sitting opposite are no more than nine feet away measured from face to face. This allows for comfortable conversation.

Never allow for circulation in the space to cross between the seating group and it’s focus such as a fireplace or TV. Also, don’t require circulation between rooms to cross diagonally across the room.

Below are some layout guidelines:

• Provide 18 inches from a chair or sofa to a coffee table for easy reach.
• 30 inches can be used to access windows behind seating when that space is not used as circulation.
• 36 inches minimum should be provided for circulation through or around the room, but 42 to 48 inches is even better.
• Provide at least 30 inches of width for primary access to the seating group. You can go as low as 24 inches for secondary access points such as between the furniture and adjacent shelving or fireplace.

Kitchens

Kitchen planning has become a specialty unto itself. The trend over the past few decades has been to create large impressive kitchens that act as an extension of the living space. However, noise and messiness are always an issue, so there has been some movement back towards separate kitchens.

The basics of kitchen room planning are as follows:

• The work area is the space between the refrigerator, sink/prep area, and the stove and oven. In most kitchen layouts this will create a path called the work triangle. These components should be placed in the kitchen such that the total unobstructed path between all three is around 24 feet in overall length, with each leg of the triangle being from 4 feet to 9 feet in length.
• Provide an absolute minimum of 36 inches between countertops in the work area (work triangle). However, 42 to 48 inches is preferred, but no more than 60 inches in a galley layout configuration (two sets of counters/cabinets parallel to each other).
• Be sure to provide at least 30 inches of passing space between an open refrigerator or oven door and the opposite countertop.
• Countertops are typically 24 inches in depth but can be deeper so long as anything placed at the back of the counter can be easily reached.
• Built-in islands should be at least 24 inches deep, though 30 inches or more is preferable, and 48 inches or more in width. The depth should be no more than 72 inches to allow for easy reach to the middle of the island.
• Eat-in kitchens should allow for 42 inches between countertops and table edge if chairs don’t sit within the work space, and 60 inches between countertops and table edge if chairs sit within the space.
• Don’t plan a large corner pantry with a diagonal wall and door. It creates an ugly bulk that makes the kitchen feel smaller. Pantry storage can be handled in better ways.

Pantries

Pantry storage comes in two types: Cabinet units in the kitchen or a separate room adjacent to the kitchen.

Cabinet unit pantries are an efficient means of storing items as the circulation space of the kitchen is used to access them. They are often tall cabinetry units matching the kitchen cabinets.

A pantry room requires additional floor space to access the shelving and is therefore less efficient in terms of the amount of square feet needed. However, they’re a great means of storing a lot of items that can be easily seen and accessed when standing in the space.

General shelving should be at least 12 inches in depth, and up to 24 inches deep if larger items are to be stored. There should be a minimum of 36 inches between the edge of a shelf and an opposite shelf or wall. The pantry can also incorporate cabinetry and countertops if desired.

The pantry room can be accessed directly from the kitchen or located in an adjacent mud room, laundry room, or hallway.

Pantries can also be integrated into an adjacent room such as a laundry or mud room.

Dining Rooms

Dining rooms should be sized based on the table you want and any additional furnishings such as a sideboard or hutch. If your table will occasionally be extended by adding leaves be sure to account for the extra length. Also, provide space for the extra chairs when the table is not extended.

Dining tables typically come in round, oval, racetrack, rectangular, or square shapes, though other variations are available. The size is determined by the number of people to be seated comfortably. Use the following chart as a guide, understanding that dimensions will vary by manufacturer and table style.

# People	Round	Oval	Racetrack	Rectangle	Square
2	2′-6″	2′-6″ x 3′-6″	Use Round	2′-6″ x 3′-6″	3′-6″
4	3′-6″	2′-6″ x 5′	Use Round	3′ x 4′	4′
6	4′-6″	3′ x 6′	3′ x 6′	3′ x 6′	5′
8	6′	4′ x 7′	3′-6″ x 8′	3′-6″ x 8′	6′
10	7′	4′ x 8′	3′-6″ x 10′	3′-6″ x 10′	7′
12	8′	4′ x 10′	3′-6″ x 12′	4′-6″ x 12′	8′

Provide the following clearances in the dining room:

• Provide at least 3 feet from table edge to a wall
• Provide at least 4 feet clearance at an opening into the room.
• Provide at least 4 feet from table edge to a hutch or side table to allow for their door swings and open drawers, and to provide comfortable space when serving off of the side table
• Provide 3 to 5 feet from other furniture when the table is part of a living/family room or great room, depending on how the chairs relate to the furniture.
• Provide 4 to 5 feet for circulation through a dining space connecting other parts of the house.

Breakfast Rooms and Nooks

A breakfast room is a less formal eating space that’s adjacent to or an extension of the kitchen. It typically doesn’t require the same sized area of a formal dining room as the table is often smaller, there is little need for a table extension, and the proximity to the kitchen can often remove the need for a sideboard or hutch.

Since these rooms don’t typically require wide clearance on all sides of the table, you can reduce the depth needed between the table and a back wall to no less than 24 inches. Otherwise, use the same clearances as the dining room for planning purposes.

A breakfast nook is typically an extension of the kitchen. It’s smaller than a breakfast room and typically has built-in banquette seating for part or all of its seating.

Banquet seating with an upholstered back is typically 20 to 25 inches deep from the front edge of the seat to the wall or back panel of the banquet.  Banquet seating without an upholstered back should be 18 inches deep minimum and no more than 21 inches deep. The table edge can align with the front of the seat or can slightly overhang the seat no more than 4 inches.

Recreation Rooms

Recreation rooms should be sized based upon the activities and furnishings in them. You should plan for the following clearances:

• 5 feet around a pool, billiard, or ping pong table. Be aware that pool tables vary in size based on style and manufacturer.
• 4 feet in front of any arcade game unit

Any seating should use the same planning criteria as for the living room.

Media Rooms

Media rooms, which focus primarily on large screen monitors for video games and movies, should be sized based upon the type of seating you want, the number of people you want to accommodate, the size of the image screen, and any supplemental elements such as a service bar.

Home theaters are a more formal type of media room and has special planning criteria which in not covered in this article.

Bathrooms

Bathrooms will be sized based on the number and sizes of plumbing fixtures and vanity cabinets to be placed in the space. General rules of thumb are:

• Vanity units are typically around 30 to 32 inches in depth and should have at least 5 feet from the back of the vanity to the opposite wall.
• A vanity unit that accommodates two sinks should be at least 60 inches in overall width. 72 inches or more in overall width is preferred.
• Toilets require 33 to 36 inches in width between adjacent elements such as a wall, vanity unit, tub, or shower. There should be at least 5 feet from the back wall of the toilet to the opposite wall.
• Provide at least 36 inches in front of a tub or shower unit to allow someone to dry off with a towel. 48 to 60 inches is even better.
• A separate toilet compartment within a bathroom should be at least 3 feet wide, but 4 feet wide to feel comfortable. the room should be at least 5 feet in length if no sink is in the compartment. It’s preferable to include a small sink to wash your hands before handling the door, which requires an additional 2 feet of length.
• An independent powder room is preferably at least 5 feet square if the sink and toilet are on the same wall. If the toilet and sink are opposite each other the space should be least 4 feet wide by 8 feet long to be comfortable.

Bedrooms

Bedrooms should be sized for their long-term intended use, meaning they should be planned to accommodate a reasonably-sized mattress for the long term use of its occupants. If a child will be use the same room until they leave the nest you might start with a twin bed but might want to upgrade to a full or queen size bed for their teenage years and to covert the room to a guest room once they leave the home.

Below are some guidelines for bedroom planning:

• Provide at least 30 inches between the far side (from the entry) of the bed to a wall if you want a “floating” bed.
• Provide at least 42 inches between the near side of the bed and an adjacent wall or furniture such as a chest of drawers or a desk.
• Provide at least 36 inches between the end of the bed and an adjacent wall or furniture such as a chest of drawers, and 42 to 48 inches for a desk. If a bench is to be placed at the foot of the bed make allowance for the additional dimension needed to accommodate it.
• The entry doors to the bedroom should be placed in a corner with flat wall space on the adjacent perpendicular wall for the door to sit when open.
• Don’t place closet doors such that they interfere with the entry door swing or open to the back of the entry door when the entry door is open.

Below is a table of standard mattress sizes. Overall bed sizes can vary based upon the bed frame sizes and styles.

Bunk Bed	30″ to 33″ W x 75″ L
Twin	39″ W x 75″, 80″, or 84″ L
Double (Full)	54″ W x 75″ L
Queen	60″ W x 80″ or 84″ L
King	76″ W x 80″ or 84″ L
California King	72″ W x 84″ L

Master Bedrooms

The owner’s bedroom should be sized for comfort and to act as a getaway space for some quiet time away from the family or spouse.

This room should be sized to accommodate a king-size bed, and the clearances should be a bit more gracious than for the typical bedroom. Also size the room to accommodate more furnishings such as a lounge chair or a small seating group.

This room should have ample closet space for two occupants and a private bathroom.

Below are some rules-of-thumb for furniture clearances.

• Provide at least 42 inches between the far side (from the entry) of the bed to a wall.
• Provide at least 60 inches between the near side of the bed and an adjacent wall or furniture such as a chest of drawers or a desk.
• Provide at least 48 inches between the end of the bed and an adjacent wall or furniture piece such as a chest of drawers or a desk. If a bench or chairs are to be placed at the foot of the bed, make allowance for the additional dimension to accommodate it.
• Entry doors to the bedroom are preferably placed such that someone cannot see the bed directly from the entry if the entry is on a hallway used by other members of the family.
• An entry door placed in a corner should have adjacent flat wall space for the door to sit when open.
• A door centered in the room should be designed as a recessed entry such that there are adjacent perpendicular walls against which the door can sit when open. If a recess cannot be accommodated, make sure there is flat wall space next to the opening so that the door can be fully swung back to the wall when open.
• Don’t place closet or bathroom doors such that they interfere with the entry door swing or open to the back of the entry door when the entry door is open.

Master Suites

Owner’s Suites are larger versions of a simple master bedroom. They can often accommodate a sleeping area, a sitting area or room, a large luxury bathroom, walk-in closets, and a dressing area. They might also accommodate a private office or a small exercise area.

Use the same clearances guidelines as the master bedroom, and the living room for seating groups.

Master Bathrooms

Owner’s bathrooms are typically larger than the family bathroom, often containing a larger vanity and a separate tub and shower. A separate toilet compartment has become a popular element, as have large luxury tubs.

These spaces are often connected with or immediately adjacent to walk-in closet space. Some will have two walk-in closets, one for each spouse, that are often sized as a room that acts as a large dressing area with customized storage elements.

Closets

Closets basically come in three types by use: clothes closets, general storage closets, and utility closets.

Clothes closets come in three types: reach-in, walk-in, and wardrobe.

Reach-in closets are the most efficient in terms of space usage as additional floor space is not needed to access the clothing. These closets should have a clear depth of at least 24 inches, but not more than 30 inches. A shelf above the clothes rod should be at least 13 inches deep.

Smaller reach-in closets allow for easy access to the clothes; however, longer closets often extend beyond the door opening limiting the amount of clothing you can see at one time.

Walk-in closets have become very popular, especially as people own more clothing items than in the past. They require more floor space than reach-in closets in order to access the clothes, but you have the advantage of being able to easily see all the clothing at once.

Walk-in closets should be at least 5 feet across if clothing is stored on a single wall, and at least 7 feet wide if clothing is stored on opposite walls.

Wardrobes are essentially tall furniture pieces that act as clothes closets, containing one or more rods in the unit on which you can hang clothes. They often have a drawer at the bottom for additional storage.

These are more common in Europe and other continents, especially in older houses, as closets did not become a common element of home design until the early twentieth century.

They can act as a focal element of the room when designed with a nice aesthetic. They can also allow a room without a closet, such as a home office or a private den, to be converted to bedroom use without the effort needed to frame in a new closet.

General storage closets are spaces in which we put the things we don’t need immediate access to. This can include storage boxes, small equipment, sports items, bulk-purchase items, etc.

Though such spaces can be reach-in closets, they’ve often become more like walk-in closets or room-sized spaces. They can be located inside the house and/or planned as an extension of the garage space depending on what’s to be stored.

A reach-in linen closet should be at least 12 inches and up to 18 inches in depth.

Utility closets house your mechanical systems for the house. This can include a heating/cooling unit, water heater, water softener, etc.

These closets can be sized similar to reach-in closets accessed from a hallway, laundry, or mud room. They can also be a room that you can walk into.

Provide at least 36 inches of clear space in front of the mechanical units for rooms you walk into so that you can service the equipment.

Laundry Rooms

Laundry rooms are workhorse spaces. They’re not meant to be rooms you spend much time in, but they require a lot of planning.

The location of the room is important to consider. If placed near the bedrooms you’ll have the convenience of having the clothes closets nearby. If placed near the kitchen you’ll have the convenience of having the laundry nearby your day-to-day activities, but will require lugging clothes baskets through the house to get to the bedroom closets.

The space will focus around the washer and dryer units. Be sure to plan for the width and depths of the units, adding at least 2 inches in extra width to allow the units to be pulled out for maintenance. Also plan on an additional 6 inches of depth at the back of the units to allow for the connections to plumbing lines and the dryer exhaust vent.

More traditional-sized units can usually fit in a roughly 5 foot width.

Be sure to provide a comfortably-sized area in front of the units. 3 feet is the absolute minimum, but 4 to 5 feet is better given the front access for dryers and front access for many washer styles.

To best utilize the space you should include at least 5 feet in length of countertops on top of base cabinets. This will give you an area to sort clothes for washing and an area to fold clothes after washing and drying.

A large and deep sink is beneficial to have to hand wash clothes. You can use it to presoak clothes or to hand wash items.

A drying rack is good to have above the sink in order to drape items that need to be air-dried.

Overhead shelving or cabinets increase the amount of storage you have. However be sure to design these so that you can easily reach them.

A window or skylight allows natural light, which makes doing laundry more pleasant.

If you live in an area that doesn’t traditionally use automatic dryers, locate the laundry room so that it has direct access to the yard where clothes will be hung to dry.

Mud Rooms

A mud room is a space where the family typically comes in and out of the house most of the time. It’s typically located adjacent to the garage and often has a door to the back or side yard.

Mud rooms are intended as the place where wet shoes and boots are removed and stored, where family coats are hung, where backpacks can be placed, and a spot to keep the keys for the house and cars. It can also be a good place to re-charge phones.

A bench is good to have to pull on and take off shoes, pegs or a rod are needed to hang coats, and cubbies can be used to store shoes, scarves, gloves, and backpacks. It’s also a great place to keep your umbrellas. Storage cabinets can be beneficial and a countertop or a table are good to place bags of groceries or other items brought in from the car.

This space is typically placed near the kitchen and can also act as the laundry space.

Provide at least 42 inches in front of the bench. Passage through the space should be at least 48 inches wide if pegs and/or cubbies are provided on one side, 60 inches if pegs or cubbies are located on one wall opposite cubbies or cabinets on the other.

The bench should be at least 4 feet wide for one person to comfortably put on or remove shoes or boots. Wider benches can accommodate more people at the same time.

Hobby Rooms

Hobby rooms are specialty spaces that are used for arts and crafts projects, gift wrapping, sewing, and other specialized activities.

These spaces require lots of storage and work surfaces. Base cabinets with countertops and overhead cabinets are great to have. A central table or built-in island can act as the activity area.

The kitchen can act as a hobby room as long as enough storage and work surface area is available for the combined uses.

Use the same clearances covered for the kitchen.

Home Offices

Working occasionally from home or out of a home has become ever more common. Home office space should provide everything you need to work effectively and comfortably.

These work areas can be in a separate room, an area that’s an extension of a room or space, or a wall niche in a room or space. A home can have multiple work areas such as a private office for the adults, a supervised study area for the kids located within the living and kitchen area, and a kitchen spot to look up recipes and create grocery lists.

A room used as an office should be sized for what you need and want, but not so small that it will feel claustrophobic.

Below are some planning guides:

• You should allow for at least 48 inches from the desk edge where you sit to the wall or furnishings behind you. 60 inches is better.
• It’s good to include a lounge chair or sofa in the space for reading and for relaxing when you take a break from your work.
• Be sure to plan for any shelving or countertops with base and wall cabinets if beneficial for your work.
• You should always have access to natural light, preferably a window. A small skylight can work if the space is deep inside the house.
• Consider sizing the office the same as a bedroom, including a closet, so that the office can be converted to a bedroom in the future by you or by someone who buys the house down the road. Location in the house is key, as you might not want a bedroom located away from the others unless it can act as a guest room with easy access to a full bathroom.
• The door to the office should be located in a corner with enough wall space on the perpendicular wall for the door to sit when open.
• If the door is centered in the space be sure to provide for adjacent wall space for the door to sit when swung fully open.

Home Gyms

Fitness has become an important focus for many of us. An area for fitness equipment and body exercises can be a plus to achieving our health goals.

Such areas can be a separate room or combined with other spaces such as recreation room or as part of a master suite.

It’s preferable for the space to have natural light and a view out a window to keep the room lively while exercising.

Each piece of equipment or group of equipment such as free weights will have its own footprint and equipment extents requirements. You need to make sure you have enough space around each side of the equipment for access, use, and maintenance.

As a rule of thumb, plan on the following:

• Plan on at least 48 inches between the extents of equipment opposite each other.
• Plan on at least 30 inches between equipment extents for those that sit next to each other.
• Plan at least 24 inches behind the equipment extents in order to access for maintenance.
• An area for body exercise should preferably be at least 36 inches clear from any equipment.
• Areas for body exercise should be able to accommodate exercise/yoga mats, enough space for full body motion in all directions, and for the length of a tall person when prone on the floor. When prone with arms extended beyond the head a person six feet eight inches tall you’ll need about 8 feet in length. Providing some additional clearance, you should plan on an area at least 10 feet square, a bit wider if 2 people are exercising together.

Work Spaces

Work spaces are areas where sizable equipment such as table saws are used or where large effort activities occur, such as car repair or gardening work in a greenhouse.

If you’re working with wood you’ll need a workshop that can handle items in 8 foot lengths such as plywood and lumber. If you’re doing mechanical work on cars or motorcycles you’ll need a workspace in the garage with enough room for you to work around the car and to pull yourself out when your working underneath a car.

Below are some guides:

• Provide at least 36 inches clear between equipment located opposite each other.
• Provide at least 36 inches clear between equipment next to each other.
• Provide 30 inches or more behind equipment for access and maintenance.
• Allow at least 8 feet clear area to handle 8 foot boards and sheets being cut on table saws.
• Provide at least 42 inches in front of a car for engine work.
• Provide at least 36 inches to the side of a car for door work and easy access to the interior.

Greenhouses are somewhat similar to kitchens or hobby rooms in that there is long horizontal workspace required with a depth limited to your reach. Use similar clearances as for those rooms, adjusting as needed for your specific activities.

Storage Rooms

Storage rooms need to accommodate a variety of items. Storage tubs are around 24 to 26 inches in length and are a good basis to plan your shelf sizes. You’ll need 24-inch-deep shelves to efficiently store them. Plan on at least 36 inches between shelving for accessing items, 42 to 48 inches preferred.

Manufactured storage cabinet units come in a variety of sizes, typically 18 inch and 24 inch depths and a variety of widths. These can be located in a variety of spaces and be easily relocated. Be sure to provide at least 48 inches clear in front of the units to access when doors are open.

Garages

Plan on 12 feet in overall width for one car, and an additional 10 feet of width for each car after that. 20 feet of depth is minimum but 22 feet is better to allow for easier maneuvering around them.

The garage can be extended to also house other items such as motorcycles, ATV’s, boats, and more and to provide for a workshop area. Be sure to plan enough room around each for easy access.

Any storage units to be placed in the garage will increase the width or depth of the garage based on the depth of the cabinets. The same goes for any workbench, equipment, etc.

Porches, Patios, and Decks

These outdoor spaces are often furnished similarly to interior rooms with seating and tables of various types and sizes. Some even have outdoor kitchens built into them.

The layout and clearance requirements for the furnishings and kitchen elements are the same for the interior rooms.

A long narrow porch should be at least 6 feet deep to comfortably accommodate chairs or a porch swing, but preferably 7 to 8 feet or more. Larger houses should have deeper porches, sometimes as much as 10 to 12 feet to match the style and scale of the house.

Driveways and Walkways

Driveway layouts are determined by the street access and the location of parking and the garage.

A long driveway that accommodates a single car leading to a parking area should have a width of at least 11 feet. A parking area for a single car should be at least 12 feet wide, adding 10 feet for each additional car, and 20 feet in length.

Maneuvering a car takes up space. If the garage door is essentially at a right angle to the driveway direction you’ll need enough space to turn the car in to face the door before driving into the garage, and enough space to back out while turning the car to face the direction you need to travel.

If you have a long driveway that leads directly to the garage door you’ll want to be able to back out and turn the car around to drive to the street.

The diagram below shows general guidelines for the area you’ll need to maneuver into and out of a single car garage. You’ll need to widen the drives and maneuvering areas as needed for additional garage doors.

A walkway leading to the front door should be at least 4 feet wide, but can be as little as 3 feet if you want people to experience a more intimate journey to the door such as through a landscaped courtyard or garden.

A public sidewalk in front of the house should match the width requirements of the jurisdiction, but is typically 4 wide but can be as much as 5 to 6 feet wide especially if the sidewalk abuts the street curb.

A garden path can be narrower than a walkway, but should be at least 18 inches wide.

Use the information in this article as a guide to your planning journey. These dimensions will assist you in planning a comfortable house.

All photos and drawings are by Cayl Hollis unless noted otherwise.